Saturday, 9 October 2010
When you look over the DMZ you can see two flags that of the north and that of the south which designate the settlements of the two sides. People live in the DMZ which I think consists of military personel, support staff and some farmers who get paid quite well as they do occassionally get taken hostage.... although apparently not too recently! Its a unique scene seeing the divide between the countries and because of all the mines it hasn't been developed at all and is really green - I think its recently been designated as a national park because of all the wildlife and plants that grow there!
Part of the tour took us down to the tunnels where North Korea have tried to tunnel to Seoul. We got to wear these cool blue helmets which was lucky because the tunnels were pretty low and I managed to hit my head a couple of times! They told an odd story about when the tunnels were first discovered North Korea claimed they were mining for coal and as it was actually granite to support their story they'd painted the tunnels black to look like coal - it sounds so odd I wasn't sure whether it was propaganda or not and I'm still not sure!
Ok so I'm dressed in smart clothes because I thought I was going into the negotiation area where there's a strict dress code but they were closed for the day - The UN and South Korea were having a chat with North Korea about the submarine that got shot down and the nuclear tests - no idea why they thought I couldn't help out with the negotiations! Here's me at the train station between the two capitals - it used to run between the two but international relations have soured recently and no trains run on this line anymore. There was an underlying feeling from this tour that South Korea wanted to have a better relationship with North Korea and open it up again but politically its complicated and there's such a large amount of propaganda that when I spoke to South Koreans about things like the submarine incident they were frank and said that honestly they didn't know what to believe! One day I hope I'll be able to go back to this station and see it in action...
Got up early and headed on the DMZ (de-militarised zone) tour which is a 4km strip across the length of the country between north and south korea. Its surrounded by barbed wire, sentry towers, its mined, there was a heavy military presence and South Korean civilians aren't allowed in the DMZ - needless to say this was a bit different from your average tour!
Next day we headed into Seoul to explore, go shopping and sample some of the local food then headed to Nanta a comedy show based in a Kitchen. What AB didn't tell me was that they made people go up on stage and he stuck me on the end of a row...... so I got chosed to go up on stage! I got dressed up for my 'wedding', fake clubbed over the head with a rolling pin, had to try some soup then finally got married to a japanese girl that got picked to come up on stage too! great show really fun.
My first Koreans! Nice guys sat next to us at the night market so while sampling the local street food and my first taste of Soju, the Korean national drink, which is a hideously strong spirit drunk straight with dinner we chatted to them and they insisted I hadf a picture with the first koreans I'd spoken to.
Back on the blog after 2 months! so back in Beijing the morning after the great wall and me and my american friend hired bikes and braved the roads of Beijing to head to the forbidden city - stopping on route to join in the back of this tai chi class which happens in every single park across china just a shame we didn't have the white suits as well!
Sunday, 25 July 2010
So thats my update for now I've made it to Korea and I'll try and get those pictures up soon. China was awesome I think the highlight was definitely the wall - see how happy I am in this picture - but everything about China was awesome and I've been to so many places and see so many different things it was an amazing experience and so different to anywhere I've been before and I'm so glad I decided go.
After Tianamen I went back to my dorm and made friends with a nice american guy called peter who I managed to convince that he wanted to come to a remote part of the great wall to avoid the crowds. On the way we picked up a polish couple who were a bit lost and the four of us set off up the wall - first stopping at the tourist shop to borrow the chinese hats for this photo!
So then there was an epic 26hr train journey where the only ticket I could get was 'standing room only'! I sat on my bag in an aisle for 26 hours to get from Chengdu to Beijing living like the chiense do on these pretty tasty chinese pot noodle - needless to say I was pretty excited when we finaly got to Beijing!I checked in an headed for Tianamen square which is huge - this is the picutre of chairman mao that looks over the square.
From Xi'an I got a sleeper train down to Chengdu which is where China has a huge panda breeding facility reserve for looking after pandas and releasing them into the wild. Around Chengdu is the only place in the world you can find wild pandas. These guys were awesome you have to go early in the morning so they're awake as thats when they get fed and they don't regulate heat very well so they hide in later in the day. These guys were playing a game of pushing each other off the log ladder they were on!
I'd heard about a chess pavillion on the East peak of M Hua Shan so I decided to go in search of it because the pictures look awesome unfortunately you have to risk your life to get there! Its a vertical climb up a 40m boulder with very few foot holds and you have to hold onto the two chains on either aside and work your way up - thats where I decided the chess paviliion wasn't going to happen. The chinese call this an 'adventure spot'!
For good luck people tie padlocks onto the side of this sacred mountain by red ribbons so there are thousands of ribbons and padlocks where people have been up here. At the top there's a cablecar for people that don't fancy the trek up the mountain (which is most people!) so up here there were lots of tourists but I really enjoyed this mountain.
The guidebook said the first 4k were easy and then the last 2kms were pretty tough. What it should have said was the first 4kms are pretty tough steady uphill treking and the last 2 kms are clambering and climbing up huge flights of stairs using the metal chains at the side to get you up! It was ridiculous and I really enjoyed it and getting to the top was an awesome feeling.
More rows of foot soldiers. There's actually 3 pits this is Pit 1 which has mainly foot soldiers and some horses, Pit 3 was a control pit for Pit 1 and 2, and Pit 2 had more cavelry and is still being excavated - when its done I think they expect to have over 6,000 figures but its still going on and where they were excavating you couldn't take pictures.
I got a bit lost in Xi'an and decided to get a taxi to the place I was staying, except I couldn't find a taxi, so I got a shed on wheels! Terrifying crazy driver but he just about got me there ok even thought at one point we turned into 3 lanes of oncoming traffic! Ah Chinese driving its a bit special to say the least.
Ok so the guidebook I have for China I got cheap in Oz and it happens to be 8 years out of date. So I'd read in the book it took 8 hours to get to Xi'an from the Shoulin temple and I went and asked for a sleeper train ticket... now getting tickets is confusing enough but it turned out there's a new train in town it goes 350km/hr and only takes 2 hours so the lady behind the desk had no idea why I wanted a sleeper train ticket! This is me with the super fast train in Xi'an.
Kung fu show at the shoulin temple! It was a bit like the circus but these guys are all amazing athletes and it was good to be able to see then showing off their skills with different weapons. This was their final bow where they were a bit more chilled out compared to the kung fu moves they'd been doing.
Having seen the temple I decided to head up one of the sacred mountains of China, of which I think there are either 4 or 5, which was just next to the temple. I didn't realise at time but when I got up there a path was cut out of the side of the cliff which was amazing if not slightly dubious - there were quite a few danger sings saying not to stand around for too long as things might fall on you! There were great views and it would have lead to a buddhist temple on the cliff but I didn't have enough time - I wanted to get back to see the kung fu show and I'd also been warned that the lift shut at 6 which begged the question what do you do if you get stuck up there?!
The Shoulin temple which due to some excellent planning and luck I got to very early in the morning before the crowds and at that time it felt like a really spiritual place. The temple's set away from any big cities deep in the mountains far away from everyone and the buddhist monks would practice buddhism and learn kung fu... it sort of appealed!
So the unbreakable underwater super camera... broke! I didn't even drop it
one minute it was working and then its started whiring and wouldn't take pictures. So I headed up to the tourist area and managed to find a camera which takes ok pictures. Hopefully third time lucky and this should see out the rest of China and Korea... this was its first photo at the enterance to the Shoulin area.
The Expo which is a massive area where each country has a stand to tell you about their country and traditions and other information. The huge imposing red one in the middle belongs to China and inside it was actually very interesting although it was my last day in Shanghai and I'd checked out of the hotel which meant I was carrying my monster 20kg travel bag with me so I was beating a rather slow path around these exhibitions.
Shanghai Circus which I was meant to be going to with a chinese couple I met on the bund but mysteriously she felt ill just as we got to the subway so they packed me onto the subway on my own and I didn't see them again... it was a great show though like the circus in the UK but with a total disregard for their safety!
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